This page is for Members of the Bridlemile Creek Stewards(BCS)) who would like to work at one of the BCS restoration sites removing invasive plants on their own or in small groups. This work also qualifies for Community Service hours (see below).
And for anyone who wants to know how to remove invasive plants from their own yard.
Removing invasives can be a great way to relax after a hard day at the office, a way to get exercise and benefit the environment at the same time, an opportunity to have some peaceful solitude, or engage in conversation with like minded neighbors.

Pulling ivy in the Open Space Park.
Tools you will need
The tools you will need for removing each type of invasive are described in corresponding sections below. Common to them all are gloves. We hope to eventually have a tool box on site, until then please use your own favorite garden tools. You can also check out tools from the Southwest Watershed Resource Center 503-823-2862, or borrow them from BCS/Greg Schifsky, 503-246-2714 Machetes and hatchets are not appropriate tools to use.
How to rescue ivy from trees
Removing ivy from trees is most important since ivy goes to seed on vertical surfaces and eventually can harm or kill trees. The process is simple and is very nicely shown on the No Ivy League Lifesaver Photo pictorial page.
How to remove ivy from ground
Is described very well and concisely described with pictures at ivyout's How to remove English ivy page. NOTE: Please avoid pulling ivy from steep stream banks unless there is a plan in place for erosion control and replanting with native plants. While ivy is terrible for erosion control (because of its shallow root structure and heavy weight it can actually help cause landslides) bare slopes are even more prone to erosion. On steep slopes limit your ivy removal to cutting any hanging runners.
How to remove Himalayan blackberries
Is very nicely described with pictures on this How to remove blackberries Step-by-Step Tutorial page.
Other Invasive plants
To Be Determined (TBD) once the ivy and blackberries are under control.
Site boundaries
Come to a scheduled event or arrange for a personal tour to learn the boundaries first hand.
Personal tour and demonstration
Arrange for an informative personal tour of the site and demonstration on how to remove invasive plants by contacting:
Steve Mullinax, 503-768-9065
Greg Schifsky, 503-246-2714
How to get Community Service credits for your volunteer time
TBD - who can provide this?
Small Print / Safety First
When working with any tools always maintain a safe distance around fellow volunteers. Always use caution in the Park when navigating the temporary bridge and trails.
Ultra Small Print
Please don't work at the site unless you are willing to sign the following first:
I hereby agree to waive all claims against individual volunteers and organizations arising out of or in any way related to my volunteer work in the Bridlemile Open Space Park. This waiver includes, but is not limited to, claims arising out of removal invasive plants or planting native plants . I agree to hold the project sponsors harmless against all claims as described above. I recognize that this is physical labor and that if the labor becomes too difficult I will change my activity or stop. I should use good judgment based on my physical abilities.
Please copy the above text into an email, and send it, along with your name, address, phone number, email, and if you are under 18 the name of your parent or guardian to: SWNI.org
Thank You! for helping to make the Albert Kelly Park, Hamilton Park, and the Open Space Park the wonderful places that all we hoped they would continue to be!
How to Remove Himalayan Blackberry a Step-by-Step Tutorial using common hand tools. The key to successfully getting rid of blackberries is removing the root nodule and as much of the attached roots as you can. This is easiest when the soil is moist and crumbly in late Spring, not when its rock hard after Summer's drying heat.
1 Starting on the outer edges of the plant trim each cane/stem of the plant back 8-12 inches at a clip using short to medium length handled loppers. Note, if you are going to be removing the canes from the site (vs simply letting them decompose on the ground) then cut them in convenient lengths for hauling away, e.g. 1-2 foot lengths if you are hauling them away in a wheel barrow or placing into a yard debris can.

Continue cutting until only one or two canes of about 6-8 inches are left standing above the ground.
2a Place the tip of your shovel about 3-5 inches in front of where the canes enter the ground and push the shovel into the ground as far as you can.

2b Tilt the shovel handle back to see if you can lift the root nodule out of the round. If not turn 90 degrees from your first "cut" with the shovel and repeat until the root nodule easily lifts above the ground.

3a If you are using a grub hoe, the process is similar. Swing your medium to long handled grub hoe so that the metal tines plunge into the ground about 3-5 inches behind where the canes of the blackberry come up out of the ground.

3b Then push the top of the grub hoe handle away from you to try and lift the root nodule out of the ground. Once you have the nodule above ground you should be able to easily pull it, and possibly some attached roots, out of the ground.

If the tines come up empty, try swinging them closer to the plant, and or rotate 90 degrees relative to your first plunge.
4 To prevent them from sprouting new roots, place the removed nodules and roots on weed barrier fabric, a nearby log, or any place they can dry out without contacting moist soil. The cane clippings can be left on the ground and will decompose and disappear in about a year or two.
Very young first year growth can sometimes simply be pulled out of the ground when the ground is still moist. If the cane breaks off above ground level you will then have to use one of the above methods to find and remove the buried nodule.
If the berry bushes are large and have already fruited one or more times you may have to repeat these steps each year until the supply of blackberry seed from earlier fruiting has been exhausted. It gets eaiser each year.
Special Thanks to Emily Dana who patiently posed for each of these photos and made many helpful suggestions. All photos by Victor von Salza.